what we won't use and why Home > about us > What we won’t use

What are some of the biggest misconceptions about skincare? What do we need to know?

Our Simplicité journey has shown that there are many half-truths around the meaning of the word 'natural'.

Be aware, 'natural' can be stretched to include ingredients such as synthetic 'vanilla' preservative, mineral oil, silicones, glycolic acid, castor oil and alcohol. In fact, even kerosene and uranium can be termed 'natural'.

As a herbalist, David insists that 'natural' must mean extracted from a beneficial plant, presented in as close to its original form as possible and without unnecessary excipients or fillers or thickeners.

We know that the makers of many 'natural' skin care ranges wouldn't know what the original herb looked like if they fell over it!

By far the great majority of 'natural' skin care ranges simply use a readily available, proprietary blend of commercial quality plant extracts.

These are always in a propylene glycol (look this up in the list below) base, with parabens, and none of these need to be declared on the ingredients list.

As for the extremely expensive products out there, their temporary results, if any, are often due to using a sun-sensitising 'natural' plant acid mixed with silicones such as dimethicone to smooth out the skin and leave a soft feel. There is no way that human skin can ever incorporate these non-nutrients into new, healthier, skin cells.

Using these ingredients will never benefit your skin. Our advice is to avoid them completely. If it's not food it's not fair to your skin.

If still in doubt please read the testimonials on our website. The proof of results is in the using!

An A-Z list of just some of the ingredients we would never use:

WHAT WE WON'T USE - AND WHY
A
Added Fragrance (Synthetic as well as 'Natural') - See 'Fragrance'.  
Simplicité products don't contain any sort of added fragrance - synthetic or 'natural'. The plant extracts used in Simplicite products have their own (delicious) 'smells'.  Simplicité products smell delicious because they contain large, concentrated quantities of these 'medicinal' quality extracts.

Alcohol - when used in skin care products alcohol dries the skin. Alcohol in skin care products often has another name eg  'ethanol', 'sugar cane ethanol' and 'fermented grain extract'. These are also alcohol. ‘Organic grain alcohol’ is alcohol too. So is 'SD alcohol’ and also 'denatured (denat) alcohol'. 
And don't believe the advice that alcohol used in skin care products isn't drying to skin.

ALCOHOL IS DRYING TO SKIN - in whichever form or 'carefully blended combination' it is listed.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/countrysearch/CN/alcohol.html

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) aka Fruit Acids - includes Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, anything listed as 'Fruit Extract'. 
David Lyons, naturopath and formulator of  Simplicité products says, "We can’t ever guarantee the results of our products whenever anyone is using Alpha Hydroxy Acids (also Beta Hydroxy Acids) - whether they're made from fruit or not. We believe the 'made from fruit' statement to be highly misleading.

AHAs can deform the opening of the pores - this results in deeper congestion - which I know is contrary to the manufacturer's claims. Congested skin not only leads to blackheads, breakouts, acne etc - also dryness and dehydration. We  believe AHAs are barbaric and a very 'unclever' way of dealing with skin issues.

AHAs are used to polish stainless steel appliances and should not be used on the skin at even the so-called 'low' concentrations."

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/alpha-hydroxy-acid.html

Animal products – e.g. collagen (aka peptides) from cows. Only plant extracts contain nutrients in the form that the skin can most easily use. Animal products have to go through your digestive tract before they are of any use!
Animal products are bulk manufactured. One example:
http://shopenchem.en.made-in-china.com/product/HqbnaVcThMrZ/China-Hydrolyzed-Collagen.html

Aromatherapy extracts – the lesser quality ones - - these contain high levels of impurities and are generally ineffective. 
Lesser quality aromatherapy extracts are bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.herb-extracts-china.com/p-Aromatherapy-Essential-Oil-129900/
Note: Simplicité uses only 'practitioner' grade aromartherapy extracts – the equivalent standard to 'medicinal grade' herbal extracts.

Ascorbyl Glucoside - a synthetic Vitamin C. Has been shown to cause sensitivity in skin.
Ascorbyl Glucoside is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.tradekey.com/ks-ascorbyl-glucoside/

B
Benzyl alcohol - this is produced naturally by many plants and is commonly found in fruits and teas. Not that this means much because it exists naturally in only very small amounts. The benzyl alcohol you see in skin care products is the same as what is synthesised industrially for use as a general solvent for inks, paints, lacquers, and it is also used in the preparation of epoxy resin coatings. Are we stating the obvious to say that it's irritating and causes congestion?
Benzyl alcohol is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.made-in-china.com/products-search/hot-china-products/Benzyl_Alcohol.html

Benzoyl Peroxide - a harsh treatment best left for those who wish to whiten/lighten hair and teeth. When used on breakout and acne skin it will sometime give what seems to be an initial improvement. But because this is only just the skin drying up, the problems return very quickly, usually worsened by the harshness and dryness.
Benzoyl Peroxide is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/benzoyl-peroxide.html

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) in face products - as soon as you see this ingredient in a face cream ingredient list you will know that the cream will feel greasy and 'sit' on the top of the skin. 
Just because a face creame is 'thick' it does not mean that it has any nutritive (anti-aging) value. 
Shea Butter is not suitable to be used in facial products. It is too thick for the finer skin on the face to properly absorb. 
Simplicité only uses Shea Butter (medicinal grade) in the Luxurious Mandarin Body Butter. The Shea Butter is used to make the body butter feel thicker – apart from that, 12 active ingredients give high nutritive value for skin. This is a rich, nutritive - and non-greasy body cream.

Butylene Glycol – used as a stabilizer in cremes and lotions. We avoid all glycols as these are related to antifreeze.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/butylene-glycol.html

C
Carbomer 940/carbopol – a thickener for cremes and gels - made by BF Goodrich 'the tyre people'. It is completely lacking in nutrient or any skin-health benefits. We never use this, preferring the plant based extracts. See also Triethanolamine (TEA)
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/carbopol-940.html

Castor oil – this is a prime example of something proudly declared to be a plant extract. Using this ingredient is just a cheap, easy way of making a smooth emollient cream. There is significant danger to the long-term health of workers involved in harvesting and processing castor beans to manufacture this ingredient. Plus, they are paid a pittance.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.diytrade.com/china/4/products-list/0-k-c-1/Castor_Oil.html

Cetyl Alcohol – a white, waxy substance which is used in skin care products as a thickener. No nutrient value for skin.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/cetyl-stearyl-alcohol.html

Coco-Glucoside – synthetic foaming agent produced by a chemical reaction between glucose and coconut oil-derived ingredients.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.chinachemnet.com/35385/Coco-glucoside-1485277.html

Cyclopentasiloxane – this colourless, odourless ingredient is only used in skin care to give a slippery feel to the creme or lotion. Skin can feel softer after use – there’s no lasting value. See Silicones.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.chemnet.com/Suppliers/6120/cyclopentasiloxane--1279767.html

D
Dextrin – another ingredient that's just there to bind the others together. It does nothing whatsoever for skin.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/dextrin.html

Dimethicone- colourless, odourless, used to give a slippery feel to products. It's also used for tyre dressingand to polish up your dashboard. Provides no nutrients whatsoever to the skin – see Silicones.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://robinsony.en.made-in-china.com/product/FMSQOYyUhxRE/China-Dimethicone.html

E
Ethylhexylglycerin – a preservative which has been found to be irritating to skin.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.acridine-raw-material.net/New-Products/Ethylhexylglycerin/

Fragrance – It’s synthetic – what more can we say? Synthetic substances irritate and dry the skin.
Fragrance (various types) are made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/synthetic-fragrance.html
ALSO
'Natural' fragrances - i.e. geraniol, linalool, citronellol etc – are ‘bits’ taken from plants which have been grown and processed in China/India. We believe that to add any sort of fragrance means that a) the product doesn't naturally smell good, and b) the plant ingredients it contains must be weak i.e. ineffective because these aren't concentrated or used in enough quantity to have their own natural fragrance.
Added ‘natural’ fragrances are made in China. Linalool for example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/linalool.html

G
Glycerin – a colourless, odourless ingredient with no nutrient value for skin. It's used to give skin care products a smooth feel.There's nothing wrong with glycerine - but most products use such large amounts of it - and in supposedly concentrated products such as serums.
This ingredient is made in China.
One example:http://www.alibaba.com/countrysearch/CN/glycerine.html

Glycolic Acid - see AHA's.

Grape-seed extract, grapefruit seed extract - used as preservatives in most 'organic' and 'natural' ranges. We believe these can irritate the skin and cause sensitivity, particularly because these have to be used in large amounts to be effective. Why are they used if they are ineffective? Reason – they give ‘label cred’ for ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ ranges. So then, another preservative, Phenoxyethanol, has to be added for effective preserving.

Grape-seed extract, grapefruit seed extract are made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/grapefruit-seed-extract.html

(Read details of how Simplicité preserves cremes and lotions.)

H
Hyaluronic Acid, also known as Sodium Hyaluronate – causes skin flakiness. This is a by-product of the Chinese abattoir industry (think roosters combs, animal eyeballs) which has been shown to encourage flaky skin and even skin cancers - quite opposite to the skin hydrator it's promoted as being. There is a 'natural' version which is just as unsuitable for skin - it's made from bacteria commonly found in bowel and respiratory infections in horses. Read details.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?Country=&SearchText=hyaluronic+cockscomb+acid&IndexArea=product_en&fsb=y

Hydrogenated oils – these are one step away from becoming margarine. They lack nutrients and introduce products of oxidation into the skin - which ages it. Hydrogenated oils also get caught in the pores and so cause congestion.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/hydrogenated-oil.html

Hydrolyzed Protein – used to give silky feel to products. Absolutely no nutrient value for skin.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/countrysearch/CN/hydrolyzed-protein-supplier.html

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate - used to ‘bulk out’ and thicken skin care products. No nutrient value whatsoever for skin.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.chemnet.com/ChinaSuppliers/11686/Hydroxypropyl-Starch-Phosphate--1365190.html

I
Isononyl Isononanoate – used to give products a silky, smooth feel. No nutritive value for skin.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.chemnet.com/ChinaSuppliers/9562/Products-Catalog--2.html

Lanolin - wool fat from sheep or goats. Do we really have to say more? This is a heavyweight animal fat which weighs down the skin and sits on the top. It is best used to prevent nuts and bolts rusting in a marine environment.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/lanolin.html

M
Methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone -  a preservative combination.
“The use of moist wipes containing methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MI)has been associated with allergic contact dermatitis.”
Source: Dermatology Online Journal
http://dermatology.cdlib.org/1605/4_letters/14_10-00097/chiu.html

Mineral Oil (aka Paraffinum Liquidum) – this is light engine oil, which is completely lacking in nutrient. As a component of crude oil it is carcinogenic when applied to the skin over a long period of time. It also leaches nutrients from the skin.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/mineral-oil.html

P
PABA –the worst sunscreen agent we can think of. It should have been outlawed years ago.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/paba-powder.html

Parabens – preservatives which, in high amounts, can cause irritation. There are so many better alternatives available now that there is rarely a need to use them.
These ingredients are made in China. One example:
http://www.made-in-china.com/products-search/hot-china-products/Methyl_Paraben.html

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate slightly yellowish odourless liquid which is used to improve the feel of skin care products. Absolutely no nutrient value to skin.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://detail.china.alibaba.com/buyer/offerdetail/678298917.html

Petrochemicals (aka petrolatum – Vaseline) are derived from crude oil. These dry the skin and introduce ageing elements into it.
Petrolatum is made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/countrysearch/CN/white-petrolatum.html

Phenoxyethanol – a preservative used in combination with the grape-seed and grapefruit seed extract preservatives in the 'organic' and 'natural' ranges. We believe this colourless, oily liquid irritates the skin and causes sensitivity. 
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/phenoxyethanol.html

Plant Extracts – the commercial i.e. low grade quality (the opposite of Simplicité’s freshly made extracts using medicinal grade plants.)
Commercial Grade Plant Extracts are made in China. One example:
http://www.made-in-china.com/products-search/hot-china-products/Plant_Extract.html

Polymethylsilsesquioxane- see Silicones.
This ingredient is made in China. One example:
http://www.lookchem.com/cas-685/68554-70-1.html

Propylene glycol – a liquid alcohol which is used as a solvent, in antifreeze - and as a lubricant in many skin care products to make them glide on more easily. It irritates the skin and causes flakiness. 
Even if it's not shown in an ingredient list propylene glycol will often be present. When plant/herb extracts aren't freshly prepared (we think only Simplicite does this!) but are bought from one of the big suppliers, these are preserved and shipped in a propylene glycol base. Because it is an 'excipient', the propylene glycol base is not required to be shown on product ingredient lists.
Propylene glycol is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/countrysearch/CN/propylene-glycol.html

R
Retin A (Tretinoin) - no nutrient value for skin, harsh, contributes to skin 'thinning' and makes skin sensitive to sun exposure.
Bulk manufactured - one example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/tretinoin-cream.html

S
Sd Alcohol 40-A (Alcohol Denat). – see Alcohol
Sd Alcohol 40-A is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/promotion/promotion_sd-alcohol-promotion-list.html

Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) in face products - as soon as you see this ingredient in a face cream ingredient list you will know that the cream will feel greasy and 'sit' on the top of the skin. 
Just because a face creame is 'thick' it does not mean that it has any nutritive (anti-aging) value.
Shea Butter is not suitable to be used in facial products. It is too thick for the finer skin on the face to properly absorb. 
Simplicité only uses Shea Butter (medicinal grade) in the Luxurious Mandarin Body Butter. The Shea Butter is used to make the body butter feel more thick– and 12 other active ingredients give high nutritive value for skin. This is a rich, nutritive and non-greasy body cream.

Silicones (simethicone, dimethicone, anything ending in -cone, including cyclopentasiloxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane etc) – are colourless, odourless substances which are completely lacking in nutrient value for skin. Silicones are ideal furniture and floor polishes and do an outstanding job of making the dashboard of your car look polished and shiny! Silicones are used to create the 'slippery' feel that a lot of skin care and hair care products have - but they don't offer any lasting benefits beyond this. We believe that silicones introduce ageing substances into the skin and hair.
Silicones feature prominently in most skin care ranges, from the expensive French and American brands to the cheaper and the 'supermarket' types. Silicones are also commonly found in 'natural' skin care products, and of course in just about all hair products - NOT Simplicité's.
Silicones are bulk manufactured. One example:
http://robinsony.en.made-in-china.com/product/FMSQOYyUhxRE/China-Dimethicone.html

Sodium polyacrylate - Sodium Hyaluronate is bulk manufactured. One example:

http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?Country=&SearchText=cockscomb+sodium+hyaluronate&IndexArea=product_en&fsb=y

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate – a surfactant, helps products to foam. This is usually synthesised from petro-chemical sources and is found in products ranging from the cheapest shampoos to the most expensive skincare products. Simplicité won't use it because it is extremely drying to the skin. Contrary to popular belief, there is not one shred of evidence in peer-reviewed literature that SLS causes 'cancer'. 
Sodium lauryl sulphate is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/sodium-lauryl-sulphate.html

Simplicité products which require a foaming agent contain Sodium LAURETH Sulphate which is extracted from the flesh of coconuts (sustainably harvested). We use the highest quality available (it's available in at least seven grades).

Sorbitol – a thickening agent,  also used to create the ‘slippery’ feel. No nutrient value whatsoever for skin.
Sorbitol is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.made-in-china.com/products-search/hot-china-products/Sorbitol.html

Squalane,Squalene - what is used in most skin care products is a colourless, odourless ingredient made from shark livers.
Squalane,Squalene is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/squalene-shark-liver-oil.html
(Note: Squalene in Simplicité products comes from medicinal grade wheatgerm sourced in Australia. This quality and source of squalene has been shown to protect against skin cancer cell growth.)

Stearic Acid – used to give a pearly effect in skin care products.
Stearic Acid is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.made-in-china.com/products-search/hot-china-products/Stearic_Acid.html

T
Tetrasodium EDTA - added to cleansers to improve foaming. No nutrient value for skin.
Tetrasodium EDTA is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.ecvv.com/product_directory/tetrasodium-edta.html

Tocopherol –fat-soluble vitamin E isolated from vegetable oil and added to skin care products in order to provide an antioxidant level.
In direct contrast, because Simplicité products are made using the highest quality available, medicinal-grade extracts they NATURALLY contain very high levels of antioxidants. So there is no need to add this bulk-manufactured 'antioxidant' ingredient.
Tocopherol is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.supplierlist.com/product_view/bekeylala/204537/101107/d-alpha_Tocopherol.htm

Totarol – anti-bacterial, preservative used in skin and oral care. Congests and irritates the skin.
Totarol is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.cosmetic-ingredient.com/cosmetic/Antioxidant/Totarol/

Triethanolamine (TEA) – (see Carbomers.) A significant negative when using carbomers is having to also use Triethanolamine (TEA) to 'rebalance' the pH of the carbomer-based creams and gels. Triethanolamine (TEA) irritates the skin.
Triethanolamine is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.alibaba.com/countrysearch/CN/triethanolamine-tea.html

U
Urea - congests the skin, causes irritation.
Urea is bulk manufactured. One example:
http://www.made-in-china.com/products-search/hot-china-products/Urea.html

And these are just some!